On our last evening in Boipeba we made our reservation for the speed boat to Valença the next day. Not that we prefered to travel with speed boats, but it served our travel schedule to Barra Grande on the Maraú Peninsula. We wanted to visit Barra Grande for a third time and most likely not the last time. There is something making us return to this pretty village, every time we are in the neighborhood.
So, first stage was the speed boat. Second stage the bus trip with Cidade Sol bus company to Camamu. The town of Camamu is the waterway portal to the islands in the Bay of Camamu, just like Valença is the portal for the islands of Morro de São Paulo and Boipeba.
Our inquiries in Camamu in order to find a good old ‘Barco’, typical classic boat for this region, learned us that the connection to Barra Grande is nowadays carried out by speed boats. Big disappointment. We were facing a bumpy ride and bumpy it was for sure this time due to the unfriendly waves in the bay, causing a bad mood of my wife. Halfway one of the passengers had to be dropped of on a beach, together with a load of goods he carried with him. Steering the boat was apparently tricky. When departing the place an anchor rope of a local canoe was by accident picked up by the outboard motor. One of the passengers saw this happening in the nick of time. Imagine the consequences if the captain would have given gas with full force.
To our relief the Barra Grande pier showed up in the distance. So good to walk into the village over its sandy soil. We went to about the nearest to the beach located pousada in the village, named: Pousada Maria de Firmino. Most of the staff of our stay two years ago were still there. Pleasant to meet again. We choose an upstairs room, visible on the picture of our green colored pousada.
After unpacking and installing our selfs I went to find help. We wanted to have our mosquito net on the ceiling and there was no hook. A friendly man solved the minor problem immediately. After freshing up we wanted to meet the Italian owners of our favorite restaurant in Barra Grande. Joyce, my wife, went inside first. I waited behind the bushes. We wanted to see what would happen with this surprise visit. Michela cordially received Joyce and asked her to sit down. No recognition. Well, almost all Bahian people start talking to Joyce in Portuguese, because they hold her for a Brazilian.
It was so funny to see the shock of recognition on their faces when I walked in to make them recollect the picture of the two of us. We had our meal and exchanged memories with Stefano and his wife. We also saw signs of exhaustion on Michela’s face, while Stefano looked like a fish in the water. We hope that they will succeed to live out their dream on Barra Grande.
After our dining experience in Ristorante Sapori d’Italia we wandered a bit through the village and, before we went back to our pousada, strolled over the beach in the dark, watching the moon peeping through the clouds every now and than, smelling the ocean scent, mixed with what the trees and soil added to it. Quiet time, only the waves spoke while rolling on to the shore.
‘Tranquil’ is one of the most favored words in Bahia and it surely is appropriate when you live in Barra Grande on the outer point of the Maraú peninsula. There is much more to say about this special place and I probably will report this in the next release.
Expenditure (per person) for four and a half days Barra Grande:
- Bus from Valença to Camamu, R$ 12Speedboat to Barra Grande, R$ 30
- Four nights stay (for us both) in Pousada Maria de Firmino, breakfast included, R$ 360
- Classic boat (Barco) return to Camamu, R$ 10
(Lunch+ dinner+drinks not included)