We like it to make the crossing over the bay (Bahia) with the car ferry that brings you to Bom Despacho, the village holding the ferry termminal. Bom Despacho offers good bus connections to either the small towns on the island or to the more southern destinations along the coast of Bahia, of which the cities Valenca, Camamu and Itacare are the most visited.
Joaquim was waiting for us at a convenient spot, impossible to not see him. So, suit cases in the car and off we went to Pousada Beija Flores, located on a side road from the main road towards Itaparica town. We forgot the name of the neighborhood which was a mixture of typical do it yourself Bahian houses and those owned by foreigners.
Beija Flores is fenced in by a solid wall on all sides to protect a really beautiful garden, a small paradise with pretty Pousada buildings and rooms. Maybe it was the season, but we had an unusual large number of musquitos to keep us company at that time.
A 15 minutes walk brought us at an enjoyable beach where we swam in pleasant water temperature and wandered through the inviting scenery. After two days of sightseeing, swimming and sleeping on Itaparica island, we took a bus from Bom Despacho to Valença. Valença is the main portal to the very popular island of ‘Morro de Sao Paulo’ and tranquil counterpart island ‘Boipeba’.
On the Valença river quay is the terminal situated where one can choose out of several options to reach his preferred destination: a speed boat, traditional boat or a bus to another ferry location.
From Salvador to Boipeba.
We were so blessed to meet Carlos and Graciela at that point. They also went to Boipeba, for the very same reasons as our choice for this Island. Lush nature, tranquil environment, no motorized traffic and long stretches of unspoiled beaches. They choose the most cost effective solution to get there. We took the onibus to Torrinha, a small place east of Cairu town, using a classic boat to Boipeba. The two and a half hours bus ride is an adventure in itself. It passes through Atlantic rainforest splendor, climbing up and down steep hills or were they mountains? Something in between I think. Bus ticket price was about $R 15 pp. So, the bus it was.
A “service minded” man dropped our suitcases in the back of the bus and made clear we had to keep an eye them. You know, inhabitants of this rural areas areas make use of the bus as their most important means of commodity transports. Anyway, he asked for money, I asked to change a $R 20 banknote, he took it out of my hand and moved away, I protested, he held the banknote in the air behind his back and kept moving away in the direction of Carlos. Carlos understood the dilemma, snatched the banknote out of his hands and gave it to me. We gave the greedy man 2 Reais and he left us alone. For us it was small money of course, but it reveals good people from bad people.
New friends in Bahia.
Meeting Carlos and Graciela made that the remainder of our journey went smoothly. We took the boat, traveled through the waterways around the islands, girt with mangroves and arrived at the pier of Boipeba in about one and a half hours over water. Boipeba is the name of the first settlement on the island and is nowadays a place around the pier where the coming and going of island visitors takes place. A lively point, sheltered in a small bay and the island of Morro de Sao Paulo on the other side. It was very likable for us but just the beginning of one of our best experiences in regard to natural beauty so far.
More about Boipeba and friendship in the next post. Those who desire more insight about this island click this line for the ‘friends of Boipeba website’.